Schiaparelli ‘s collaborators like Salvador Dalí and Jean Cocteau, have made a uge impact on the brand itself. With that, Elsa Schiaparelli, was one of Coco Chanel’s most famous rivals and one of the most prominent figures in fashion between the two World Wars. The brand did not adapt to the changes in fashion following World War II and Elsa’s couture house, Maison Schiaparelli closed in 1954. The house was revived in 2014. Since 2019, it has been headed by creative director Daniel Roseberry.
In 1927, Elsa Schiaparelli Italian-born, established important couture house in Paris, she was famous for her Surrealist fashions of the 1930s, and for her witty accessories. Her early designs were with a focus on knitwear. During the period of collaboration with names like Salvador Dalí and Jean Cocteau she got her famous signature aesthetic, surrealistic, quirky.
In 2006, Tod’s Group’s chairman, Diego Della Valle, purchased rights to the Schiaparelli brand and hired designer Christian Lacroix to create a collection in 2013, though it failed to materialize. In 2014, the house presented its first runway collection since 1954 under Zanini, and re-established its boutique at 21 Place Vendôme, the brand’s original home under Elsa Schiaparelli.
In April 2019, it was announced that Guyon would be succeeded by Texas-born designer Daniel Roseberry, the first American to head a French couture house.
But, how Daniel restored and enhanced the brilliance of this remarkable brand? How does he do it? Because, I have to admit, the brilliance of this brand has never been stronger!
Daniel Roseberry, is artistic director for all collections, projects and for the image of the house.
“It is my great honor and my joy to pick up where Mme. Schiaparelli left off some 85 years ago. Schiaparelli was a master of the modern; her work reflected the chaos and hope of the turbulent era in which she lived. Today, we find ourselves asking similarly big, identity-shaping questions of our own: What does art look like? What is identity? How do we dress for the end of the world?
Daniel for Schiaparelli
Daniel Roseberry, born in Texas 33 years ago, and after studying at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, he builds his career at Thom Browne, supporting the designer at the head of the American brand’s men’s and women’s collections for more than 10 years. A brand that has always had its trademark in surrealism and the artistic approach to tailoring creation and which could be the perfect fil rouge able to bind Daniel Roseberry to the heritage and original spirit of the maison and its founder. His artistic way of living, through social media, says a lot about its cultural references and its aesthetic imagery – refined, cultured, unconventional, and ready to nourish its creativity: Lola Dupré’s surrealist collages, her charcoal sketches, photographs with a Magritte touch by Yasuhiro Wakashiabay, aka Hiro.
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Boyanakeko (Bojana Kekovic), is the founder of Vitae Moderna, author, fashion editor, and a member of the GNS Press Association.
Boyanakeko è il fondatore di Vitae Moderna, autore, fashion editor e membro della GNS Press Association.
boyanakeko@vitaemoderna.com